After a huge sale in my local Anne Summers (a shop specialising in sex toys and lingerie), and the purchase of a cute new bra, the next obvious and logical step was to ponder over the origins of lingerie. Is lingerie something different from underwear? Where can we trace its origins to? What was its original function? These are all questions that this article aims to cover.
A quick google search and use of the Cambridge English Dictionary defines lingerie as being “women’s underwear.” However, when scrolling down the page and seeing an insert from the American Dictionary, lingerie is now defined as “women’s underwear or clothing worn in bed.” The American Heritage Dictionary takes this further with its elaboration on lingerie: “women’s undergarments or sleepwear, especially when designed to be visually or sexually alluring.” When the definitions alone seem contradictory and unclear, online retailers have only added to the confusion. Some online retailers have one category for simple bras and briefs, and a different section for lingerie. In other cases, everything is thrown together. Sometimes bras and briefs do appear in the lingerie category, but it usually tends to be the fancy lace ones rather than anything simple and practical. Estelle Pulestone, lingerie fashion blogger, discusses that this inconsistent advertisement is extremely confusing for customers. She notes, “some people will tell you that underwear is the basic stuff, and lingerie is for the boudoir. But what is one person’s special occasion set to someone else’s everyday one, so who are brands to tell us which bras are stylish or sexy and which aren’t.” This idea that only pretty or lacy undergarments can be considered ‘lingerie’ can stem from the word originating in France, “a place that’s been long associated with beautiful laces and fashion” states Pulestone. With its close association to sex, advertisements for lingerie seems to suggest that only pretty underwear is acceptable in the bedroom. This is entirely false. All underwear can be lingerie, and you can feel sexy in any underwear, whether that’s some new floral briefs, or a beige nursing bra.
The first representation of lingerie can be seen in the 1700s to the late 1800s with the use of corsets. “Stays” (also known as whalebone corsets) were incredibly popular for women in the eighteenth century. Whilst they look far more robust compared to the corsets made available today, they served their purpose in molding the body to create a tine wait and pushed-up breasts. During the French ceremonial ritual of the toilette, a morning routine that involved undressing and dressing in front of the court would involve putting on a stay or corset. Colleen Hill, author of Exposed: A History of Lingerie, explains during this performance the women would linger on the undergarments, “hinting at the sexual intimacy and voyeurism involved.” Corsets in the late 1800’s were far more intricate, but served the same purpose in the way they pushed the breasts forwards and arched the chest to accentuate the hips. These were often incredibly expensive.
There were great changes in the 1900s to lingerie and feelings on sexuality. During the 1910s, “closed-crotch drawers'' were invented. Previously to this, women wore open-crotch underwear because only men wore closed-crotch underpants at the time, this was seen as a way to distinguish underwear intended for women from men’s underwear. Yet, by the 1930’s, ideas had changed again. Open-crotch drawers were now considered to be the most aesthetically pleasing and fashionable. Incredibly impractical, open-crotch underwear was believed to be a way to signify sexual avaliablility and erotic desire. Ideas of push-up bras can be seen in the 1950’s with the invention of a corselet. These were strapless designs made to be worn under evening gowns, with the inclusion of underwire cups they gave the illusion of breast enhancement. The 1960s and invention of the “No-bra” by Rudi Gernreich saw a transformation from luxury underwear to basic pieces. The No-bra was transparent and promoted the braless look that can be seen as a representation of the sexually liberated 1960s. While this bra has no metal or wiring, meaning no underboob pain, it was only available in A and B cups meaning only a small proportion of boob owners could comfortably wear this bra.
The founding of Victoria’s Secret in 1977 saw a huge change in perception of underwear versus lingerie. During the 70s and 80s there were two kinds of underwear made available: cheap and cheerful plain underwear, and expensive pieces that were meant for “special occasions.” When Victoria’s Secret came into the world, it allowed more “fancy” pieces, such as satin bras and G-strings, to be financially available to everyone. Furthermore, Victoria Secret assisted in promoting the idea that “sexy lingerie” can be an everyday thing. If you find lace thongs more comfortable than hipster briefs, go wear them! From the 1980s onwards, it was pop culture that played the biggest role in changes in lingerie, and our perception of it. One example is the infamous metal string bikini that Princess Leia wears in Star Wars: The Return of the Jedi, combining both strength with femininity. Madonna’s iconic cone brassiere look in 1990 made a statement against femininity equating to softness. Noel Duan, fashion blogger notes: “of course Madonna was sexy in her light pink brassiere, but her sexual identity was rooted in her own agency and no one else’s.” Your clothing and lingerie/underwear choice has no moral implications, nor is it related to your moral worth, you can wear whatever the hell you want!
Nowadays, comfort seems to take priority over ‘sexiness’. Brands like Calvin Klein have brought out comfortable matching sets, meaning both your boobs and bum are comfortably fashionable. Looking at the history of lingerie, this is one of the first times we have seen comfort and coziness praised rather than having the focus rest on its sex appeal. I’ve noticed that in the past year in England, especially after lockdown was eased, bras are no longer an outfit essential. Nipples and breasts are now free, back and shoulder pain are now a distant memory. Sports bras and bralettes are becoming increasingly popular, whilst underwire bras are now dropping in sale rates, further demonstrating that we are learning the importance of providing our bodies with comfort.
By Stephanie McCartney